Zaragoza Highlights

The second half of our last Spain trip was spent in the city of Zaragoza. It is the fifth largest city in Spain, but the growth spread out around the ancient city center, so we were able to walk around the old part of the city and enjoy the very compact historical center.

The landscape surrounding Zaragoza, was desert-like, but as you can see in the second photo, that doesn't keep them from growing amazing olives.

The first thing we came across were the remains of the Roman city walls. Zaragoza, or Caesaragusta as it was first named, was once quite a booming port along the River Ebro that flows through this region and out into the Mediterranean Sea.

Here is some more evidence of the previous Roman presence in the area . . .

Third century mosaics and a room reconstructed with fragments of fresco and mosaic that was found in the ruins. 

Of course we stopped at various moments to enjoy some of the Spanish sun. It just definitely brighter and warmer down there. 

This palace represents another time in the city's history when it was under Isalmic rule. The palace is called Aljaferia. 

The building is a combination of restoration and original stone work, but all of it attests to the beautifully detailed manner in which the builders of the time completed their craft. 

Of course no trip to Spain is complete without a few evenings spent with tapas. 

But these tapas were one of our favorites, not only did we get to taste a bunch of local foods (including the blood sausage that is black and round in the bottom photo is a particular specialty), but we also got a tour of the building that took us all the way down into the Roman foundations beneath the building.

Next up is probably what could be called the heart or the jewel of the city. 

La Basilica de Pilar, it is more than a cathedra because it has been blessed by the pope, but otherwise it is basically a cathedral. 

But first, a photo of the fountain in the plaza of the basilica. 

That picture picture would have been so superb if it was not for the pink stroller. Alas, real life of the locals and tourism are not always compatible. 

The scale of this church is inexpressible, however this photo where I am standing about 20 feet in front of the door shows you just how much the church makes a person appear itty-bitty. I guess that is appropriate for a space that is supposed to represent God. 

The tiles on the roof are in a Byzantine style and the best place to admire them was up in the church tower. 

And I will leave you with one of my favorite images of the city from across the river.

Barcelona Highlights

We took a quick trip to Barcelona, so here is a quick post to give you a glimpse. 

We made a stop in Park Guell:

We were trying not to feed the birds . . . thankfully we were able to finish our lunch before the birds did. 

This is basically the mascot of the park. 

La Sagrada Familia (The Sacred Family) was another important visit:

The magnitude and atmosphere of this light filled cathedral are impossible to capture on camera, but at least the photos give you an idea of the nature inspired architecture. 

La Pedrera or Casa Mila was under construction on the outside, so here is a model of the building: 

And here we are on the rooftop . . .

These strange shapes are functional chimneys, however Gaudi loved to make art out of the mundane articles of the home and these chimneys are a result. 

Another detail Gaudi put in were ergonomic handles for most doors and cabinet handles...

One floor of the building has been preserved as the apartments it once was designed to be. This bathroom looks just fine today, but back in 1912 it was pure luxury. 

And here is proof that we were in Spain.

Feeling the orginal Zeel(and) ©

Three days is not enough to get to know an entire province, but it does give you time to get to  know three charming cities and see a bit of countryside. 

And of course, the province holds a special connection thanks to our love for the American city with it's namesake, so we couldn't help asking each other once in a while if we were really "feeling the zeel" ©.

In hindsight, the answer is a resounding, "Yes."

We had a 'home base' in the city of Middelburg . . .

 . . . where there were more dining and lodging options. 

The B&B with the lanterns is where we had an extremely pleasant stay. 

But most of our time was spent out on the streets of Zeeland. And some of our wanderings led us to wonder why they were so incredibly committed to cellars. We think we found a sort of answer when we learned about the agriculture (onions) of the area... but we have more research to do on this architectural trait of Zeeland (Middelburg in particular). 

Zeuwse (Zeelandish) farmland. 

You can't see any piles of onions in this one, but they were common in the many other fields of dark soil. 

We started our tour in the coastal city of Vlissingen (called Flushings for in English... probably because people have trouble pronouncing languages that are not their own). 

Rather than a sign saying "this way to the sea" Vlissingen employed stripes to signal its many visitors in direction of the sea and town. 

It didn't take long for us to feel the sea air in our hair and see the town in the distance. 

But eyes can deceive you... it took a good while for our feet to reach town.  

However we eventually did reach town . . .

. . . and since all the stores were closed (Monday = closing day), we wandered around the lanes of Vlissingen for a while.  

It didn't take us long to find the sandy stretch of land that these days keeps people streaming into the small city: the beach. We were not sad to have visited during the 'off season' -- we can only imagine what a crowded sight the place must be in the summer. 

One fun fact aspect of Vlissingen that was not possible to capture on camera (for reasons of social propriety) were the binoculars/spy glasses in many a window. In fact we even caught a couple using their binoculars as we walked past. 

The many ships that pass by this city do not go unnoticed. In fact, it seems they provide a pastime for many a resident. 

We enjoyed some fresh breezes from the water and a cloudy sunset while walking along the beach. 

We always seem to go to the shoreline when 'you're not supposed to' but we find it to be the most peaceful time, so I don't think we'll quit the habit. 

We ended up back in town for a delicious meal of Zeeland mossels, but first we stopped to admire the biggest naval hero of Zeeland (and possibly The Netherlands?). Michael de Ruijter who was a naval general who led the Dutch to victory against the Brtitish. It was hundreds of years ago, but he's still plenty loved.

The next day we found some cushy rental bikes ...

... and left the city of Middelburg once again in search of...

. . .  the Medieval coastal town of Veere (fey- ruh). 

There it is in the distance. 

This small pristine town is really more of a tourists delight than much of a community any more (although there is an elementary school in town)...

... the buildings remaining from it's prosperous 1400's days is what keeps it on the map. 

Scaffolding... constantly ruining photos and saving buildings all over Europe. 

De Grote Kerk (The Big Church)

And it is indeed big. 

We were trying to figure out if the massiveness of the building is more of an illusion created by the tiny homes surrounding it, or if the sheer bulk of the width of the tower and thickness of the sides is what makes it seem so monstrous. Whatever the case... it sure feels like one Big church when you're walking up to it. And then once you've climbed to the top of the tower you can see right back to the city (Middelburg) where we came from. 

The inside of the church has seen better... and more religious days. 

Ever since the time in the 1700's when it was turned into a 4 floor hospital it's sort of fallen in and our of repair. Today it's really more of a shell of it's former self. 

As well as a great delight to children, because who wouldn't want to swing on a wooly seated swing from the rafters of a cathedral?

And of course what would a nice town in Zeeland be without some beautiful waterways? 

It certainly wouldn't be a typical Zeeland town.